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Distance from Piraeus: 246 nautical miles Population: 90.963 The city of Rhodes, today a busy cruise ship, yacht and ferry port, is a 14th century Crusader city that was largely restored by the Italians between 1912 and1943. One of the finest examples of Crusader military architecture in the world, the town is a World Heritage Site. Indeed, stepping through one of the 11 gates in the medieval Gothic walls, one feels instantly transported to the days when towns were safe only behind high walls towers and massive gates locked against marauders. Cobbled streets and narrow alleys, thoroughfares of commerce now as then, present a busy bazaar of small shops where traditional crafts, such as fine lace and line, are still produced. An important center from the 5th to 3rd centuries BC, Rhodes was also strategic link in the Roman and Byzantine empires before the arrival of the Knights of St. John. Drawn from the noble Roman Catholic families, the order fought in the Crusades and swore vows of chastity, obedience and poverty. After the fall of Jerusalem in 1291, they took refuge in Cyprus, then bought Rhodes from Genoese pirates in 1306. By 1309 they had conquered the Rhodians and began building their great defensive city, including lodges for the seven nationalities of the Knights: France, Italy, England, Germany, Provence, Spain and Auvergne. Many of the medieval structures remain, including the beautiful inn of France. The Palace of the Grand Masters dates to this period, as does the street of the Knights, a narrow passage from the walled city to the port. By the 16th century the Knights were strong enough to repel an invasion of 70.000 Turks, but nonetheless fell to Suleiman the Magnificent in 1522. The Archaeological Museum of Rhodes, housed in the former Hospital of the Knights, includes the famed Aphrodite of Rhodes, an exquisite marble sculpture from the first century BC which inspired Lawrence Durrell`s famous book about post-war Rhodes, “Reflections on a Marine Venus”. The Byzantine Museum, a former Byzantine church from the 11th century and then the Knights` cathedral, houses a fine collection of icons and frescoes from the 12th and 14th centuries. The Decorative Art Museum is a folk museum featuring plates and tiles from Lindos, island costumes and a replica traditional Rhodian house. Tours are given of the Palace of the Grand Masters (Tuesday through Sunday) which include Hellenistic and early Christian mosaics from Cos, as well as exhibits on Rhodes from the 4th century to the Turkish conquest, and on ancient Rhodes. In the former, Byzantine Icons, Italian and Spanish ceramics, armor and military paint a picture of trade and everyday life in Byzantine and Medieval times. The latter displays fascinating finds dating back 2.400 years, unearthed during 45 years of archaeological excavations. Tours are also given of the great medieval walls, two and a half miles long, with 151 escutcheons of Grand Masters and knights (Tuesday and Saturday, 2.45pm). In summertime, the grounds of the palace of the Grand Masters are the site of the sound and light show recounting the tale of the Knights` overthrow by Suleiman. Also of interest is the Nelly Dimoglou Theater, which in addition to lessons in Greek folk dancing gives performances every evening in season, Monday to Friday at 9.20 PM. Beyond the Knights` quarter, or Collachium, lies the Bourg, the rest of the walled town where Greeks, Turks and Jews lived. The Jewish quarter is particularly interesting and picturesque, and scattered throughout the town are 14 mosques remaining from the Ottoman reign. In the new town outside the walls, the central market is a lively and entertaining combination of shops, produce stands and tavernas, as well as the grandiose buildings put up near the harbor by the Italian fascists during the 1920s. Mandraki Harbor, linking old and new towns, is flanked by bronze statues of a doe and a stag, where the Colossus of Rhodes was once believed to have stood. One of the seven wonders of the ancient world, the Colossus of Rodos was a gigantic statue of Helios the sun god, erected in the harbor in 293 BC to commemorate Rodos`10-year resistance to a Macedonian siege. West of town, the Acropolis of Rhodes (St. Stephen’ s hill) offers panoramic views over town and coast. Named for an English admiral who kept watch here for Napoleon`s fleet in 1802,it is also the site of a 3rd century BC Hellenistic city, with a stadium, acropolis odeon and ruins of temples to Apollo, Athena and Zeus. On the island`s southeast coast, visually stunning ancient Lindos is not to be missed. This is the most important of the three 11th century BC Dorian cities built on the island, a very rich and very early Greek citadel, today a National Historic Landmark. Traditional white houses, the distinctive “archontika”, march down two hills, like handmaidens to the magnificent acropolis atop the higher hill. The Aegean Sea sparks at the bottom, lapping a half-moon beach. Typical of many ancient sites, Lindos embraces centuries of history, including Crusader walls and a central temple that was dedicated at different times to Athena, Aphrodite and Virgin Mary. The Sanctuary of Athena, within the medieval walls of the Acropolis, dates back to the 4th century BC, But the castle of the Knights was built by the knights of St. John in the 16th century. Below the ancient acropolis the newer town of Lindos, which dates from the 15th century, remains one of the most picturesque in all the islands. Carved doors of the “archontika” open to interior courtyards with black and white pebble mosaic floors. Highly popular among visitors from every part of the world, Lindos nonetheless preserves its traditional look, thanks to regulations governing land use and architectural styles. Best buy: Lindian lace, prized by museums and famed since Alexander, who wore a cloak stitched by Lindian women. Ialysos, another Dorian town, reflects the struggles to control Rhodes, from Dorians against Phoenicians to Turks against Venetians. On the west coast Kamiros, third in the triad of principal Dorian cities on Rhodes, is one of the best preserved classical cities. Discovered in 1859, the extensive ruins include a third century BC Doric temple, an altar to Helios, public baths and a sixth century BC cistern that watered 400 families. On the top terrace of the sixth century BC temple of Athena Polias, with a Doric stoa running 675 feet below. A nice beach here invites a plunge in the sea after a visit. Rhodes’ Valley of the Butterflies (about 15 miles west of the capital) is one of the most scenic pastoral settings on the island. In the verdant, forested valley, clouds of Jersey tiger moths cover the trees and feel the vanilla- scented air, perfumed by the sap of liquidambar trees, which draws the moths in summer. Not far from the Valley of the Butterflies are the domed chapels of Moni Filerimos, decorated with the cross of the Knights and the coat of arms of the Grand Master Pierre d’ Aubusson. Our Lady of Filerimos is an Italian reconstruction of four chapels begun in 1306. The innermost chapel has a Byzantine floor decorated with a red mosaic fish. Embona is an atmospheric village in the foothills of Mount Attaviros with a winery, also famed for its folk dancing, festivals and traditional ways. Monolithos castle, built in the 15th century by Grand Master d’ Aubusson, perches atop a hair-raising cliff overlooking the sea. Frescoes can be seen here in two small chapels. Near the fishing harbor of Skala Kamirou, a good spot for lunch, the ruins, of Kritinia Castle stand in the mute testimony to the 30 defensive castles built by the Knights around the Dodecanese. Beaches: On the east coast Faliraki Beach has many hotels. Afandou, one of the island’s longest stretches of pebble, has many excellent tavernas. Fourni beach, south of Monolithos is sheltered and sandy with a seasonal taverna. Rhodes, being a pioneer tourism
destination in Greece and with the privilege of operating two schools of
tourism professions and one of official guides has been distinguished in
the quality of services rendered to tourists. This quality, as well as
the island itself, with a variety of worth seeing places, contributed to
the development of alternative forms of tourism and mainly that of conferences
and incentives.
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